![]() ![]() I was so worried that I had completely ruined the screen. There is a special remover and it just wasn't doing the trick, or I was doing it wrong, so I had to resort to other methods (scrubbing, baking powder.). Sounds great BUT then I couldn't clean the exposed sensatizer off the screen. I had 2 more shirts to use so I decided not to be lazy and repeat the WHOLE process again to see if I got a better result. So basically some of the photo emulsion under the artwork didn't wash away, or it had been exposed, so the ink wasn't pushing through the screen in those areas. I tried a second time, to see of the squeegee technique made a difference (holding it at different degrees) with the same result. ![]() You can see that some of the fine lines in the image didn't print properly. I waited 5 minutes because it was a very cold but sunny day but I think it was still too long. com said to expose it for 20 minutes which is waaaaaay too long. I wish I had done more research about using natural sunlight because eHow. I wish I had a secret to make it easier to know when it's "done" but I don't. Watch for the screen to darken to a grayish clay - this is very subtle. Carry it outside and set it in the sun for a few minutes. Finally you need to put a piece of glass or plexiglass on the artwork to hold it in place. Oh yeah, you should also tape the transparencies together so they don't blur your image. Then you put your screen face down (flat side up - remove those pushpins first) and your artwork face down (wrong side up) because when you turn the screen the right way your artwork is also reversed - see how the writing is backwards in the photo. You want something large and flat to carry your assembled screen outside, and something dark under the screen - otherwise the light will bounce and expose the wrong parts (black poster board would serve both purposes, or you could use a big piece of cardboard with some black fabric over it). The next day the sensatizer was dry and I was ready to "burn" the screen. I had 3 copies made because you need the artwork to be super black to block out the light. Luckily, I brought the image that I had printed on my inkjet, which they photocopied onto transparency and it was crisp and perfect. I don't, so I emailed the image to Staples, but when they printed them it was very pixelated and smudged looking (odd?). If you have a laser printer and transparencies, you can print them yourself. The green stuff washes away where the artwork was, leaving you with your stencil (negative)!įirst you'll need to prepare your artwork with Photoshop, Print Shop, Word or whatever. Then you expose it to light and the green stuff hardens everywhere EXCEPT where the black lines of the artwork block the light. You put this green stuff on the screen, and when it's dry you put a transparency with your artwork on it. Here is the big picture, nutshell, explain-it-to-me-like-I'm-a-6-year-old version: If you're interested in screen printing, make sure to read at the end of this post where I share some other screen printing options to consider. Or like making a negative on the screen, for those of us who remember 35mm film :) My first attempt didn't go so well, but I'm close to figuring it out. Photo emsulsion screen printing is like making a stencil right on the screen, no cutting required. Until now, I have only done freezer paper stencils with fabric paints, and let me be the first to tell you that cutting out intricate details is a royal pain. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |